The New Yorkerのインスタグラム(newyorkermag) - 10月3日 22時00分

It’s been a very good year for Kwame Onwuachi, Hannah Goldfield writes. Last November, Onwuachi opened his first restaurant in New York City, where he was born and raised. Tatiana, which is located in Lincoln Center, has been visited by guests like Jay-Z and Beyoncé and was awarded three stars by a Times restaurant critic—an extraordinary achievement for a rookie restaurant.

Onwuachi comes from a collage of cuisines; he was formally trained at the Culinary Institute of America, where he learned classical French cooking. During that time, he was also making burritos at a local Mexican restaurant and selling ramen behind the student rec center. Tatiana’s menu reflects his personal history, combining the cuisines of his elders, who come from Creole Louisiana, Trinidad and Tobago, and Nigeria, with the cuisines of the city’s corner stores and street carts. “His formal training inspired him not simply to plug Afro-Caribbean flavors into European formulae, but to exalt Afro-Caribbean ingredients and techniques,” Goldfield writes.

At Tatiana, which feels more like a nightclub than a stuffy house of fine dining, Onwuachi seems to revel in the contradictions of challenging the system from the inside, Goldfield writes: “that he feeds some of New York’s wealthiest diners while wearing a do-rag; that at the home of the New York Symphony Orchestra, he’s blaring ‘music with the curse words.’ ” “I’m playing my fucking music that I wanna play, we’re putting oxtails on the menu; I’m putting a Black woman’s name on the side of Lincoln Center. I feel like I’m being as radical as I want to be,” Onwuachi said. Read more at the link in our bio. Photographs by @evan_angelastro for The New Yorker.

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