surflineさんのインスタグラム写真 - (surflineInstagram)「Black Friday at Waimea Bay. Hours before sun rise, the buoy hit 20.7 feet at 20 seconds. For those who don’t speak NOAA, that’s enormous. We’re talking sand on Kamehameha highway, and legit 25-foot + sets closing out the Bay every half hour. It was a sleepless night for those closest to shore. The ground was shaking with every set. Waves washed into homes and took what they wanted from them. Even the deepest of sleepers would toss and turn as the roar of the ocean rumbled all the way up Pūpūkea. One surfer would paddle out to Waimea Bay, alone and in the dark. At dawn, big wave surfers would arrive to watch Tripp Turner, a Pastor , whose congregation meets every Sunday in Waimea Valley, dodge closeout sets and ride the first waves of the day. Many would soon join him. Up at the Heiau, @jackboberphoto, sat with his long lens and snapped this shot of @ealadolla riding a mountain. From this vantage point, you can almost understand the enormity of what surfing Waimea means to the brave men and women who answer its call. Click the link in bio for the #swellstory and stay tuned to the forecast for the next one. 🤙🏼」11月28日 2時51分